Cultural Differences

I was sitting on the floor of the hallway, chatting with one of my dormmates, Randa, the other night while she cleaned a pair of shoes. We chatted about her classes, about Ramadan, and other things. Every once in a while she would start apologizing profusely. "I'm so sorry, I'm so sorry!" she said.

For the life of me, I couldn't figure out what in the world she was apologizing for. So I replied to her, "What are you apologizing for? I don't understand."

"My shoe. I keep accidentally pointing the bottom of my shoe at you."

Right, in the Middle East it is an insult point the sole of your shoes or your feet at people, because they are dirty and are in contact with the ground. There are probably other reasons too, but I don't know them. That's the reason I tend to be careful about how I cross my legs.

I giggled, "Oh right. I didn't even notice. That's not a thing in my culture, I didn't think about it. Don't worry. I won't take it as an insult. Do what you need to do!" And we continued chatting.


 I can't believe I have less than 3 weeks left in this country. I have been blessed to experience this culture and to start to understand some of the nuances involved.

Yateek Ilaafiyah

There are four different ways I can call home: using the phone at my Reps' flat, using Skype if I have good enough internet, using an international calling card, or using my regular phone plan. On Easter, while I was in Aqaba, I decided to surprise my parents with a phone call, and ended up using my regular phone plan since I couldn't find any stores that sell international calling cards. My sister and her boyfriend were home for Easter, so I got to talk to them too. Mom was the last person I spoke to. I greeted her, then suddenly the call disappeared.

Once I figured out that my phone ran out of money, I ran to the phone store next to my hotel to buy some minutes. I wanted to buy 10 Jordanian Dinars (JD) worth of minutes. When I asked how much, the salesman told me 20JD. I gasped and refused. He, in English, claimed that it's tax, blah blah blah to try to get me to pay it. I told him, no, it's never more than 7.50JD for a 5JD card in Amman and Irbid. He relented, and had me pay 15JD. On my way out of the store, I told him "yateek ilaafiyah"- which is basically "bless your work", but something only someone who lives in an Arab speaking country would know to say. All the salesmen in the store laughed, surprised that I knew it. The man who sold me the phone card apologized for treating me like a tourist, since I obviously wasn't.

I was proud of myself. I might not speak Arabic, but I'm getting a hang of the Arabic niceties.

Has it really been a month?

 It's hard to believe that I've been in Jordan for over a month now. Sometimes it feels like I've been here for so much longer. It feels like it's been years since I was in Akron at Orientation. But, at the same time I feel like I just got here. It feels like just yesterday I was standing in downtown Amman for the first time, marveling at the little blue lights that decorate the street. It's been quite a month. I started to learn the layout of Amman. I took Arabic Language lessons. I visited Ancient Roman, and Byzantine, and Islamic ruins. I saw Irbid and Husn for the first time. I went to Bethany Beyond the Jordan, Mount Nebo, and Madaba. I attended a Lebanese indie band concert in the Roman Ampitheater. I made friends with many interesting ex-pats and a wonderfully welcoming Palestinian family. The craziest part is that at after all of that I moved into the YWCA in Husn (which is a 15 minute car ride away from the Arab Episcopal School), started living on my own, and finally started volunteering at the Arab Episcopal School.

On Saturday morning, I moved all of my possessions into the living room and ran to my last Arabic class. After that I said my goodbyes to my classmates, made promises to let them know when I visit Amman, and hopped into the Country Reps' car. We dropped Caleb off at the airport shuttle to take him to his new home, and set off to Husn. The Country Reps helped me move my bags into my room, walked around the town with me while I found grocery, said their goodbyes, and left me on my own. My Saturday night, I was officially living on my own at the YWCA.

I enjoy the independence of living on my own. I like making my own schedule and routines. I enjoy the opportunity to explore the town at my own pace. But, it's a challenge as well. I'm still learning what amenities the YWCA has, and its schedules. I know where I can store my food. I've built up my bravery to light the gas stove with the lighter, even though I think I've going to burn myself every time. I figured out how to use the showers, though I've been taking cold showers since I still don't know when the hot water is actually on. I figured out where I can buy fruits, vegetables, hummus, and bread. Meat it still an issue because most of what I've found in the stores here is processed (i.e. chicken nuggets, that sort of thing.) I've discovered that cooking for one is not nearly as much fun as cooking for several, and thus have become extremely lazy about actually making food for myself. Since Saturday, I've made 3 or 4 salads and eaten too much pita and hummus. Can you blame me for eating so much hummus and pita though? It's so good, and super cheap! I get the hummus fresh from a shop down the street and a kilo of pita still warm from the bakery a few doors down for less than $2 combined. I've made pasta a few times as well, but until I get a better plan for buying meat I don't think I will do much actual cooking.

Monday was my first day at the Arab Episcopal School (AES). I felt pretty lost most of my first day. School has been in session for several weeks now and the schedule is pretty routine for everyone else by now. I just tried to follow along. I'm working with the 1^st, 2^nd, 3^rd, and 7^th grade English classes. I love being around kids and teaching. All of the classes are fun. The 1^st graders all clamor for my attention and want to tell me what things are called in English. The 2^nd graders have started trading the Arabic names of things for the English names with me and desperately want me to call on them when I help with conversation. The 3^rd graders impress me every time I'm with them, with their vocabulary and their quick grasp of English grammar. The 7^th grade is silly, and has much better reading comprehension than I had after 3 years of high school French.

With all of the classes, I particularly work with the low vision students, helping them write and making sure they are paying attention and comprehending. In the lower grades I've also been assisting with conversational English and checking work in and out of class. I'm supposed to run a conversational English class once a week, I'm not sure what exactly that entails but I'm excited. Tomorrow I'm going to start assisting with the English correspondence in the office.

There is no doubt in my mind that the next 10 months at AES is going to be a challenge, but I'm excited to face it. I love every minute I'm with my students, even when they are driving me up the wall. I can't wait to look back in July and see just how far both my students and I have come.

(I apologize for the lack of pictures, my internet here is too slow to load them. I will post some the next time I'm in Amman or when I have access to faster internet.)

So the Transition Begins

Amman's skyline at sunset.

Adjusting to a new place is always rough, even moving to a new town. When you move to a new town you don't really know where things are, you aren't always sure of the best way to get around, you don't really know anyone, and you have to figure out how the community functions. Now, imagine doing that when you don't speak the language and are functionally illiterate. That's been my last week, and will probably be my life for most of the year. It'll be smoother at some points than others, but that's okay.

Caleb and I at the Roman Amphitheater.

My first week was more rough than I'd like to admit. Back home, I enjoy being independent, I love going places by myself or making plans with friends and going where ever I chose, especially in the evening. That's a little more difficult here for many reasons. One: I don't really know where anything is or how to get there. And it's really hot during the day so I try to avoid long walks during that time. Two: it's not all that common to see young, unmarried women out alone, so I feel like I awkwardly stand out. Three: I really do standout when I go places because I'm so obviously a Westerner. (I'm trying to get used to thinking of myself as White in this context, even though I would never identify myself that way.)

The Temple of Hercules.

Last Monday, I started taking Arabic lessons. I've had a lot of mixed feelings about them. While I'm in class I feel really stupid, and mildly defeated. Arabic's really hard, the structure is different and there are many sounds that we don't use in English, or at least that we don't distinguish as separate sounds. And I'm only taking it for 4 weeks (3 to go!) so I often feel like there's no point when I'm struggling to remember or pronounce words. But then I go out and I hear people talking and I can recognize words. Or like last night, I had a taxi driver who didn't speak English, and I was able to understand a little bit of what he was telling me about where we were and where we were going. In these moments, I feel encouraged. My struggles in class aren't in vain. I am learning something.

In the Umayyad governor's palace.

Arabic lessons have dominated my life for the past week. They take up the whole morning, and are exhausting. Afterwards, Caleb and I either head to the MCC office or back to Reps apartment, where we hang out, relax a bit, and study. My life can't be all work and no play though, so I have been trying to do fun things when I'm not studying. Before classes started, I had some time to get to know the city. The MCC Reps took Caleb and I to the Royal Automobile Museum last Friday. And on Saturday they introduced us to an American student, Clara, who is doing an internship and studying Arabic here in Amman. That day we walked around the hill she lives on, saw the old Roman Amphitheater, and hung out on Rainbow Street, which has a lot of cafes and is a popular hang out spot for young people and expats. Tuesday was a holiday for municipal elections (yes, after one day of class I had a day off!), so Caleb and I went to the Citadel. The Citadel is a historic site in Amman, with artifacts dating back to the Neolithic Period (which began around 10,200 BC and ended around 2,000 BC). The excavated architecture includes a Roman Temple of Hercules, a Byzantine Church, and early Islamic Mosque, and a Umayyad governor's palace. It is absolutely amazing to see. Caleb and I spent most of the day exploring the Citadel and taking pictures. While there we were, we ran into a group of young boys. The moment they saw my camera they asked me if I could take a picture of them, so I did! They looked at the picture after and were excited and went on their way. It seems that that's a thing here, the kids want you to take a picture of them because they like posing for pictures and the idea that you have a picture of them.

The concert we stumbled upon.

Thursday nights are the Jordanian equivalent to Friday nights in America, and the big thing that people do it just hang out. One popular spot to this is outside of the Abu Darwish Mosque. So Clara, Caleb, and I hung out there. We had ice cream and some sweets, and listened to a concert that we stumbled upon. I think the concert had something to do with a Islamic theology class that some boys just finished, but I'm not really sure. It was a great time. We attracted a lot of attention as a mix gender group of Westerners though. Some of the attention was from adorable little kids. There was a group of little girls who really wanted to talk to us, but were really nervous and didn't know much English. When they finally built up the courage they came over and told us hello, ran back giggling to who I think was their Dad. They came back and asked our names, and ran away giggling. They returned and told us their names, then ran back to their Dad. They asked where we were from, ran away, came over and told us they are Palestinian, and ran back. After that they had to leave so they came back one last time to tell us "Welcome to Jordan!" before heading home. Some of the attention is from random weird people. One guy was talking to Caleb for a long time, and slowly a circle of teenage boys joined the conversation, Clara and I were commenting that he had a fan club. When the original man left one of the boys told us, "He's crazy," so really they were just trying to save him. And some of the attention is from young men. There were several groups floating around us, who seemed to be trying to get the courage up to talk to us for most the night. It was all very fun though.

I'm excited to have more adventures this week, and my goal is to face the awkwardness and culture shock. I'm going to find a coffee shop to study at in the afternoons, and I want to try to go to the market at least once by myself. I'm trying not to retreat from the roughness of transitioning, and hopefully that will make it smoother in the end- especially when I move to Irbid where I really will be on my own.

One month to go!

The countdown:
17 days until I leave my summer job.
23 days until MCC Orientation begins.
30 days until I fly to Jordan.

You know what that means? In exactly one month I'm going to be in Amman, Jordan! AHHH!!!

Hanging out at the beach

I was at work yesterday when this realization hit me. I almost needed to sit down for a minute. I cannot believe how quickly this summer has gone by. This summer has been exactly what I needed. I've been able to hang out with my family, earn some money, spend time with my friends, and make some new ones. And, of course, wear all my non-Middle East appropriate clothes (basically all of my dresses, skirts, and shorts). Though I am starting to miss doing research (seriously, what is wrong with me?), I haven't been able to do as much research on Jordan as I wanted to this summer. I'm definitely looking forward to starting Arabic lessons and adventuring around Amman.

I am now in the last minute prep stage. I'm trying to figure out what I have, what still need to buy, and how I'm going to pack it all. I have one last appointment for some immunizations tomorrow. What else do I need to do? I'm not sure. I'm sure my parents will start lecturing me about things I'm missing soon enough.

Fundraising complete: CHECK!

I am ecstatic to announce that as of today I have officially completed my SALT fundraising! I have raised over $5,000.

Thank you to all the people who have donated to support my year in Jordan- family, friends, distant cousins I haven't met, and everyone else! Special thank yous to Holly Grove Mennonite Church, Wallingford Presbyterian Church, and the Rehobeth Ruritan Club for their support.

Tiffany and I, before she left for Taiwan.

If you're now thinking "Oh, shucks! I was going to donate to her!" Never fear! There are other SALTers still fundraising. Go here to find a SALTer still in need of support. Or, my friend Tiffany Barron is still fundraising to support her year in Taiwan with the Christian and Missionary Alliance. Click here for more information on what she's doing, or click here to donate!

Again: Thank you so much to everyone who has supported me through donation, prayers, and well wishes! Please continue to support me throughout the year, and to keep in contact with me! (I love comments on my blog!)


In other SALTing news: I have started going to my pre-MCC doctors appointments (I know I'm late in the game). I have registered for my Arabic lessons in Amman, still waiting to hear where I'm living for that month. And, I know where I'm living from October until July- I will be at the YWCA in Al Husn (alternative spelling because of transliteration include Al Hassan and Al Hosn). As soon as I have official word on my mailing address I will let you all know.